Fray Check in bulk?

I'm planning on making a lot of permanent, fabric streamers (as opposed to buying the crepe paper kind) that can be re-used. While I don't plan on washing them (I don't foresee them getting overly dirty), they will need to withstand repeated installations and excessive handling. I'm not planning to finish the edges with sewing because I have about 2,300 yards of edge to finish. So... Fray Check would be the easier solution but at 3/4 oz. per bottle, that's a lot of little bottles. Does anybody have or know of a recipe or source for bulk quantities of Fray Check?

4 Answers

  • Anonymous
    2 years ago

    I would use fabric that doesn't fray, or cut the fabric on the bias, or use polyester fabric and cut it with a hot knife, which would seal the edges from fraying.

  • 2 years ago

    Don't use fray check. if the edges are too rigid your streamers won't stream, Instead use cutting methods that mitigate the fraying without the need for edge treatments. First and foremost: A lightweight single knit jersey will not fray or ravel, it will stream out in the wind and look fabulous. Jersey knit isn't just cotton t-shirting there's plenty of fine light weight nylon and polyester jersey that comes in brilliant colors, metallics, tissue lame and more. You can also cut your streamers on the bias grain -look this up on google. The edges of firm weaves such as crepe, crepe back satin and crepe chiffon are less prone to raveling when cut on the bias grain. Finally -and what I would do -is use a pinking shears to cut the edges. this adds a fray resistant edge to fabrics and is what was used to finish raw edges of fabrics for many many years.

  • 2 years ago

    You don t need to use Fray Check and similar products, especially if you won t be washing (especially repeatedly). Just use any water-based clear-drying finish or glue.

    The thicker ones (like Elmer s Glue All and other PVA glues) may need to be thinned a bit before using (wtih water), but thinner ones like polyurethane or acrylic medium or even Mop N Glo will be thinner already. The PVA type will be the most supple after drying though.

    For the sturdiest sealing, you'll want to work the glue/finish down into the weave of your fabric (by brushing firmly or by pouncing). Or just apply lighter, or more on the surface.

    You could also use a pair of pinking shears (the older way of finishing edges that might ravel), or much easier and quicker use a pinking shear type of blade in a "rotary cutter" preferably on a self-healing mat.

    I guess you could also use one of the glues to apply a strip of non-fraying fabric on the edge.

    Or you could use something like fusible web (on a roll, or also comes in sheets, and all types) and iron that on the back side with a non-stick material underneath temporarily, or use the type that has fusible web on one side with a colored "fabric"/etc on the other side, etc.

  • drip
    Lv 7
    2 years ago

    Not a good idea. Frey check can change the color on some fabrics and cause a stiff edge. Plus applying it to that much fabric would be messy, time consuming and tedious.

    Best solution is to fisnish the edges on a serger using wooly nylon thread. It is the best method for it holding up to repeated use and it will look professional.

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