Why is my killifish not eating?
I just added a killifish 5 days ago to my mature planted tank of golden and amber tetras.
My guess is the killie previously fed on live food because no it is not eating at all and I feed my fish with flakes, cyclop-ezee, and frozen mysis shrimp.
But 2 days ago, I found out that the killie has got white spots and is now under treatment.
Is it possible that the white spots cause it to lose appetite? If not,what can be done so that the killie accept non-live food?
And can anyone tell me what killie is mine?
- golden lyretailLv 68 years agoFavorite Answer
There are over 1,000 killifish species, collection strains & color sports. Some of them are omnivores (many Fundulopanchax, some Rivulus, some Fundulus. There are also some almost exclusively vegetarian killifish (like the pupfishes). Their digestive tract, including intestines, would measure several times the fish's length.
The reason that is mentioned is that a lot of the killies are mini- predators, taking tiny fish, mosquito & other insect larvae, all sorts of crustaceans and even some aquatic (and really stupid terrestrial) insects. As with almost all fish, if it can fit into their mouths, it will. Their digestive tracts (when one can find a drawing) are not likely to be as long as the fish's body. They don't have the digestive system, nor can they produce the enzymes to digest vegetative material, which is included as the green flakes in commercial foods.
Your killifish is a Nothobranchius. Just a tentative guess is that it is a slightly unhealthy N. guentheri, possibly of the blushing strain. There are over 65 Notho species & strains and more species are being described. If you Google N. rachovii, which is a stunning species in several collecting strains, it is quite different from guentheri. N. guentheri though is considered an "easy" Notho. I have seen them in a couple of shops but they are more often available from killifish club events. (Google your city or area & killifish club.
Ah, but it might also be N. patrizii!
If that is an image of your Notho, thank you. Wish the ID could be more decisive. Did it have a name on the fish bag it was purchased in?
Nothobranchius live in areas where ponds almost always dry up. They are true annuals. Even well-cared for specimens will do fine & them die usually short of 12 months of life. (Non-annuals can often live for 2-5 years.One individual is 14.)
The white spots are too big to be the much feared velvet. If you fish has been stressed one way or the other, it could be Ich.
Ich on such killifish can be caused by leaving rotting bs (brine shrimp) in the tank. Not doing a weekly partial 50% water change or underfeeding those fish also can stress them. Stress, perhaps from bullying. and dirty water can cripple a fish's immune system
Ich can be effectively treated many times by doing a 50% partial water change change with previously treated water of the same temperature that has been left in open (soap-less, food quality) containers at least overnight to expel noxious gases (like chlorine, carbon dioxide, free nitrogen...) and to absorb a little oxygen there too. A commercial Ich treatment should be administered as per instructions after any activated carbon is taken out of the filter.
The temperature can be gradually walked up to about 84-85 degrees - which usually kills the Ich even without other treatments. There are medicine-resistant strains of Ich in the hobby. Please check out source 2 & if possible Diana Walstad's article on it.
The problem with your Nothobranchius getting a heat treatment is that the fish in that image looks like it needs food. Live brine shrimp are useful, if not overfed. But they often have starved for a week & their nutritional value is less than frozen bs (defrosted in Luke warm water, rinsed in a fine-meshed net to get rid of the "organic soup" they come in). Be careful not to overfeed shrimp. That would rot & create an ideal environment for the parasitic velvet.
Nothos must see the food move or drop in the water. That triggers a feeding mechanism. Are the mysisc shrimp too big for the fish's mouth?
One of the best conditioning foods that also can fatten up skinny Nothos are black worms, available in many of the better independent pet shops. (See also source 8) They can be be one at a time, in floating feeder rings or in a clean glass bowl on the tank bottom. Only drop a few freshly rinsed blackworms in at a time so they get eaten & don't get into the gravel.
Nothobranchius fry, when the aquarist is weaning them off of freshly hatched bbs (baby brine shrimp), can be trained to take crushed flake fragments. A couple of livebearer fry of the same size are put in with them. No live food is fed for a day or two. Then a few crushed flakes are fed. The livebearers - likely guppies or Endler's (Poecilia wingii) - will begin feeding on the flakes.
The plan is that the Notho fry will follow suit. I've kept a couple of pairs of Nothos raised to take flakes & they did well.
Your adult male probably is beyond the point where it can be conditioned to flakes. Feed him something meaty and treat for Ich. If you have other tanks, please be careful not to carry Ich organisms to that tank on your hands, a net or via a splash.
Hope your Notho does better and is a delight to keep.Source(s): http://www.killi.co.uk/Nothobranchius http://forums.tfhmagazine.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=... http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=201201... http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=Algp3... http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Dav... www.brineshrimpdirect.com www.aquaticfoods.com/ http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=201202...
- noselessmanLv 78 years ago
I think it is a rochovia/ northobranchius
Were did you get it? rochovia and golden wonder are the only ones I have ever seen at petstores. If you got it from a store, call and ask what they were feeding it.
Is it just those two random spots, or does it have more spots, it might have ich. and yes, that yould make it lose appitite. Treatment for ich is almost worse than the ich, that woulde definitly cause stress and appitite loss. It is best to just raise the tank temperature to 86 degrees and maintain good water curculation or add an air pump.
- franceseLv 43 years ago
eating habitual Killifish feed totally on aquatic arthropods which contain insect (mosquito) larvae, aquatic crustaceans and worms. that's pronounced via the killifish collector Rudolf Koubek that areas in Gabon the place the streams lack killifish (simply by toxins or different motives) are rife with malaria, that's unfold via a mosquito. some species of Orestias from Lake Titicaca are planktonic filter out feeders. Others, which contain Cynolebias and Megalebias species and Nothobranchius ocellatus are predatory and feed especially on different fish.